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Night photography introduces many challenges that are easily avoided during the day, like noise, blurriness, and your camera’s hypersensitivity to movement. Luckily, modern cameras provide you with an array of night-friendly settings to help get a sharp, properly exposed photo of stars, planets, and night landscapes.

1. How to use and balance aperture, shutter speed, and ISO at night

Before embarking on a night photography journey, get to know the three crucial settings—aperture, shutter speed, and ISO—that allow you to create a properly exposed photograph.

Aperture, ISO and shutter speed settings. Photo by Hideya HAMANO

Aperture

Aperture is the amount of light that you let through your lens. The lower your aperture, the more light you let through (so, an aperture of 1.8 lets more light in than an aperture of 5.8).

Because photography is essentially the recording of light, you need to let in more light as your scene gets darker.

So, if you’re shooting an unlit night landscape, you’ll use a lower aperture (measured in f-stops) number than if you’re shooting an image of the aurora borealis, since there’s more light available in the latter scene.

Typically, your aperture options range from approximately f/1.8 to f/22.

Aperture also has an effect on the depth of field, or how “deeply” into an image things are in focus.

The larger your f-stop number, the greater your depth of field. Luckily, depth of field changes are much less noticeable in nighttime photographs than in daytime ones.

A shallow depth of field produced by a lower f-stop choice. Photo by Olli Henze

Shutter speed

Shutter speed is the amount of time that you expose your film or your digital sensor to light. So, more light is let through as your shutter speed lengthens.

You may have noticed that the way the Milky Way and other nighttime imagery looks to your naked eye is much different from how it looks in photos.

That’s because much of the color and light in the night sky is invisible to us.

However, by using longer shutter speeds (and letting in more light), we can expose the light and color that our eyes miss.

Keep in mind that:

The darker your scene, the longer your shutter speed needs to be for your camera to pick up on all of the details of the scene.
The need for longer shutter speeds in night photography is one of the reasons that you must use a tripod — shutter speeds over 2-3 seconds make it easier for your photos of stars, planets, and constellations in particular to blur.
When you’re shooting exceptionally dark scenes or creating stair trails, you’ll need to shoot at a shutter speed longer than the ones your camera provides. Use a remote shutter release to shoot at shutter speeds greater than 30 seconds or so. You’ll need shutter speeds as long as 3-4 minutes for many nighttime landscapes, for example.

ISO Camera Settings

Understanding ISO is crucial for long exposure photography, as ISO determines the sensitivity of your camera’s sensor to light.

The less light you have, the higher you must set your ISO.
The more light you have available (i.e., from the sun or from artificial light), the lower you set your ISO.

Keep in mind that a higher ISO means a higher chance of noise (grain or pixilation).

So, generally, you’ll want to keep your ISO as low as you can by adjusting your aperture and shutter speed before touching your ISO.

“Noise” like this is often the result of a too-high ISO setting. Photo by josef.stuefer

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How aperture, ISO, and shutter speed work together

Best Ppsspp Settings For Star Ocean

There are a plethora of variables (where is your light? Is your light source constant, or are clouds occasionally passing over it?) that can change what the “right” choices are for aperture, shutter speed, and ISO in long exposure photography.

However, it helps to remember that each of the three settings affects how much light reaches your camera’s sensor, so it’s a matter of striking a balance between the three.

To keep your image as sharp as possible, you’ll want to start with the lowest possible ISO.

Move on to experimenting with shutter speed to find the one that lets in enough light without blurring your image, and then work on fine-tuning your aperture to control how much light you let through your lens.

The chart below will give you a solid starting point.

Are you shooting…	Aperture	Shutter speed	ISO
The moon (and just the moon)	f/8	1/250	100-400
A moonlit or starlit landscape	f/5.6	3-4 minutes	100-400
An artificially lit night landscape	f/5.6+	15-25 seconds	100-400
The nighttime skyline (stars and constellations)	f/5.6 or lower	15 seconds	100-400
The Milky Way	f/1.8, or as “wide open” as you can	15-25 seconds	1600+

Check out chapter 5 to find the best settings to start with for your specific subject matter, whether you’re shooting a star-scape, a close-up of the moon, or an artificially lit night landscape.

2. Use noise reduction to minimize the effects of high ISO settings

If you’re using a tripod, you won’t have to worry about the reduction in photo quality (and clarity) created by a high ISO setting.

However, if you find yourself without a tripod and need to use a high ISO setting to minimize blur, you can balance out the loss of quality by employing the “noise reduction” setting in your camera’s on-screen menu.

Noise reduction works by creating a duplicate of your photo with the shutter totally closed (in other words, a blank photo with the same settings used in the actual photo), analyzing areas that contain grain or pixilation, and removing those imperfections from the original photo.

Noise reduction settings can help improve clarity and quality in low-light situations. Photo by Four Corners School

Keep in mind that, with a little Photoshop finesse, you can achieve a similar affect in post-processing.

However, neither method is perfect, and you should always opt for a low ISO setting and a trusty tripod over a fallback noise reduction method and a high ISO setting when you have the chance to choose.

3. File formats: Shoot in RAW mode for ultimate control

Generally, you’ll have the choice between three file formats in your camera’s settings: JPEG, TIFF, and RAW.

For night landscapes and star photography, RAW is nearly always the way to go. It allows for ultimate control over color settings and white balance in post-production (and, with nighttime photography, you’ll usually have to do some post processing to get things just right).

Shooting in RAW format helps maintain the many lovely color variations in the scene you see. Photo by jason jenkins

Bonus: Shooting “raw” also allows your images to maintain the widest possible range of colors and pick up on both subtle and extreme differentiations between light and shadow (like in the photograph above).

Shooting in JPEG format limits you in this regard. Why? JPEG’s biggest selling point is that the files take up less space, but they do so by compressing the image you take—which, unfortunately, also means “compressing” the details, losing some of them along the way, and making it impossible to get those details back to work with in p